Let's talk about Hyaluronic Acid (HA). This skincare buzzword has been all the rage recently. But why? What makes HA so special that so many formulations include it?
The 3 biggest benefits of HA are:
- Powerful humectant - draws H2O water molecules in.
- Naturally occurring and present in our body.
- Absorbed into epidermis (top layer of the skin)
As a result, HA can help one achieve dewy, glowing skin - well moisturized and plump, helping with skin regeneration and repair. Naturally occurring HA is found in our dermis (deeper layer of the skin). As we undergo skin aging - whether with our phenotypical age, or accelerated from sun damage, the HA levels present in our skin decreases.
This causes skin dryness, which in turn results in poorer skin regeneration and wound healing, often leading to the usual tell tale signs of fine lines and dullness.
Before we dive into how to incorporate HA into our skin, let's learn more about the different formulations and types of HA.
Time for our usual *NERDY NUGGET*!
HA comes in different molecular sizes. Put simply - imagine your skin as a sieve. The smaller the molecule - the easier it penetrates the skin. Larger HA molecules cannot penetrate well into the skin. When applied topically (to the surface of your skin), these molecules sit on top of the skin, offering hydration only at the very surface. Smaller HA molecules can penetrate into the epidermis (top layer of skin).
Why do we still need larger HA molecules then? The larger the HA molecule, the more water it attracts and the stronger its humectant effects. For the best hydration effects, look for a product that contains HA molecules in a variety of sizes.
How HA sizes are defined on your ingredient list differs from brand and product but there are a few common ways they are defined. Molecular weight (higher in larger molecules) and chain length (e.g. long chain or short chain) give us an idea of the molecule size.
Should you be incorporating HA into your skin topically or via an injectable?
The short answer is both!
As we learnt earlier, naturally occurring HA is found in the dermis (deeper layer). We have also realized that the deepest penetration for topical HA is up to the epidermis (superficial, surface layer). How can we effectively "top up" the HA that is being lost in our dermis? Well, the answer is an injectable form of HA - like Profhilo or other skin boosters. Profhilo has HA of multiple molecular weights and can act penetrate the dermis and allows for both superficial and deeper hydration and benefits - it's a great way to give your skin that boost and glow!
We can still incorporate HA into our daily routine and ensure epidermal hydration. Now the next step is to ensure we have the right products!
It is best to have products containing multiple molecular weights of HA and this can usually be found on the ingredient list of your product. Some key phrases to look out for include:
- Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid
- Multimolecular hyaluronic acid
- Short chain hyaluronic acid
- Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
- Nanosized hyaluronic acid
Next, we need to look out for the right concentration of HA in the product.
The higher the concentration of HA - the more viscous the product and it may be more difficult to spread across the skin or penetrate the epidermis. As such, the sweet spot of HA 2% is often selected by cosmetic brands for their formulations.
It is crucial to note that HA is NOT your moisturizer. It is a hydrating agent, but to really seal in the goodness and protect your skin barrier - it is still best to apply an emollient - containing ingredients like ceramides, squalene or squalane.
Our restore. Barrier Restore Cream is made of multi-molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramides to deeply hydrate the skin barrier both externally and internally, as well as strengthen the skin barrier. Moreover, it is lightweight and non-greasy, making it easy to apply it in the morning before makeup and at night before bedtime.
*NERDY NUGGET*
IF you have acne prone skin, and feel that squalene (shark liver oil or vegetable oil derived) is too rich for your skin, consider squalane (a lighter version of squalene derived from hydrogenation) for similar anti oxidant and emollient properties.
To improve penetration of HA - some products include Panthenol or Vit B5 that strengthens the skin barrier and locks in the moisture that HA brings in, so look out for that in your ingredient list as well!.