Guide to Your Skin Cycle

How do you craft the perfect routine that works for you?

Many of my friends and patients are fearful of starting an exfoliant or retinoid. They are worried about possible skin irritation, purging and general intolerance. And everyone leans towards products that feel good and make your skin moist.

To that, I always bring back the same analogy of working out. Trust me, I hate it. It is not like going for a massage or an onsen bath - it is hard work and it aches. But it is what my body needs to build muscles, maintain strength and have good health.

Similarly, skincare isn't meant to just "feel good" or "feel luxurious". It has to work too! 

So how do we make the process as tolerable as possible?

If you're new to skin cycling here are some tips!

1. Try to use a gentle and mild cleanser and essence. 

Think of yourself as a chef cooking a comforting soup dish, you want a clean, pure base to let your ingredients shine, and not a pre-made stock that may possibly overshadow the ingredients themselves. 

Remember, you're basically tailoring each active ingredient to what your skin needs, so having them duplicated in other skincare products you use may result in a stronger effect than intended, resulting in inflammation and irritation.

2. Start low, Go slow.

If you have not used both an exfoliant and retinoid before, introduce one new product to your routine at a time.

Start with an exfoliant suitable for your skin type - lactic acid for drier skin, glycolic or salicylic acid for normal skin, and salicylic acid for oily skin types.

If you are starting on a retinoid for the first time, remember to only use a pea sized amount for your whole face. If you're worried about irritation or to minimize adverse effects, use the sandwich method - layer the retinoid between 2 layers of moisturizer for a start. This will reduce the potency of the retinoid product, but you can always step it up gradually!

Here is a proposed cycle for your first time:

  • Exfoliant Night
  • Recovery Night
  • Recovery Night
  • Recovery Night

Continue this for about 2 weeks. If your skin is tolerating it well, add on a retinoid.

  • Exfoliant Night
  • Retinoid Night
  • Recovery Night
  • Recovery Night

Once this is well tolerated and you wish to see more results, progress on to:

  • Exfoliant Night
  • Retinoid Night
  • Recovery Night
  • Retinoid Night